FAQs

Light scratches can only be made less noticeable.

Apply the mildest household abrasive cleaner, or a paste made from soda bicarb, or a stainless steel sink cleaner. Using a soft cloth, a fine nylon scouring pad or soft bristle brush, rub the surface as softly as possible, using long even strokes in the direction of the polished finish (remember to wear gloves). Avoid using a circular motion. Rinse well and wash as per routine cleaning.

Stainless steel is easy to clean. Routine cleaning with soap, mild detergent or ammonia solutions in warm water, followed by a fresh water rinse is usually adequate for normal soiling. Repeated applications and the occasional use of a fine nylon-scouring pad will often remove heavier soiling and even stains will become less noticeable and even invisible.

For heavier soiling or light staining, apply the mildest household abrasive cleaner or a paste made from soda bicarb, or a stainless steel sink cleaner. Using a soft cloth, fine nylon scouring pad or soft bristle brush, rub the surface as softly as possible, using long even strokes in the direction of the polished finish (remember to wear gloves). Avoid using a circular motion. Rinse well and wash as per routine cleaning.

Our Timber Preparation Boards are made from plantation timber. We use Radiata pine as the "light" timber and suitable hardwoods as the "dark" timber. A superior quality water resistant glue is used for maximum strength and treated with a water-resistant preservative agent to maintain stability in color and grain. Grain patterns, cutting marks, even stains are part of the timber's natural beauty. Properly cared for a Board should offer years of service.

Timber is a hydroscopic (water absorbing) material and will always be affected by exposure to extremes of heat and moisture. Minor cracks may appear on the end grain called "checking", which occurs as timber takes in and disperses moisture. Checking will in no way affect the normal service expected of the Board.

To obtain maximum service and appearance, the following points should be observed:

• Do Not expose a Board to excessive heat from cooking appliances or steam, nor leave exposed to direct sunlight for long periods.
• Do Not soak in water or place in the dishwasher.
• Do clean regularly with a damp cloth or sponge.
• Do apply a generous coating of vegetable cooking oil every few months, or whenever the Board begins to feel dry. This renews the natural oils and reduces the risk of splitting or loss of shape.
• Do use care to avoid dropping the Board on hard floors, which can damage the edges.

If removal of cutting scars is desired, use fine wet and dry paper with cooking oil.

If warping should occur it can usually be rectified by thoroughly moistening the convex side (outside curve) of the Board and then exposing that side of the board to the heat of the sun until the board flattens out.

Our Colanders are made from ABS or Polypropylene. As with all plastics exposure to sunlight or high temperatures will gradually destroy the product. At best exposure will gradually remove the "plasticiser" from the plastic and make it brittle. At worst it will deform or sear the plastic.

We recommend the occasional washing of the product in warm mildly soapy water and regular rinsing with cold water.

Straining hot pastas and draining off hot water through the Colander is not recommended

Our Laundry Cabinets are made from Permacoat steel. This steel is used extensively in the appliance industry for washing machines etc and has a high resistance to rusting.

Permacoat steel is Zincalum (zinc and aluminium plated mild steel) coated with a pre-painted baked enamel finish. The cabinet as supplied has a clear plastic film on it to protect during transport and installation. This should be removed before use as, over 6 months it will begin to adhere to the Permacoat steel and eventually become brittle and crack or craze over a number of years.

The paint system on Permacoat steel is highly durable. Simple maintenance of this finish by regular (6 monthly) washing with water will not only enhance life but maintain the attractiveness for longer periods thus protecting your asset.

In cases where regular maintenance does not remove all the dirt, wash the surface with soap or non-abrasive detergent in warm water. Then rinse with fresh water.

The area under the cabinet should be kept dry and chemicals such as pool chlorine. bleach and nappy wash should be stored in airtight containers as they will promote rusting of the Stainless steel Tub and Permacoat steel cabinet.

Caring for Stainless Steel

Stainless Steel will generally be unaffected by the normal conditions of domestic use. However, the potential for abnormal conditions does exist in the domestic environment. Fortunately repeated simple cleaning methods can often restore the surface to good condition. It is preferable to take some precautions to avoid abnormal conditions as outlined below.

Acids & Chemicals such as pool chlorine, battery acid, muriatic acid, solvents, glues, paint removers etc can all attack Stainless Steel. Leaving these on the surface of the Stainless Steel creates an aggressive, adverse environment which removes the invisible oxide layer.

Bleach & Nappy Wash may be used on an occasional basis but prolonged, concentrated or heated use will also cause damage to the steel. If bleach has to be used on a frequent basis and for extended contact periods it is advisable to use a separate container (i.e. plastic bucket). Also avoid contact with undiluted bleach.

The Stainless Steel used today is not inferior to that of that used in previous years in fact it is usually better. What has happened over time is that bleaches have got stronger and the active ingredient (hyper chlorite) is what attacks the Stainless Steel.

Pool Chlorine does attack both the Stainless Steel and a Laundry Cabinet. If storing this under a laundry Tub. It must be kept in a fully sealed container to avoid breaching the warranty.

Food & Ingredients such as raw, bloody meat, undiluted fruit juices (especially lemon) and spicy sauces may, if left on the sink for a long period of time stain the surface. Also avoid excessive contact with strong, hot brine solutions (salted meats).

Mild Steel, strangely enough also can "stain" stainless steel under wet or damp conditions. Steel wool and pot scourers are common sources of staining. As the ordinary steel particles rust they leave a stain on the Stainless Steel surface.

Cleaning Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel is easy to clean and responds well to regular low effort cleaning. It is better to use the mildest forms of cleaning regularly rather than more aggressive cleaning less often.

Routine Cleaning
Washing with soap, mild detergent or ammonia solutions in warm water followed by a fresh water rinse is usually adequate for normal soiling. Repeated applications and the occasional use of a fine nylon scouring pad will often remove heavier soiling and even stains will become less noticeable and even invisible.

Heavier Soiling, Light Staining
Apply the mildest household abrasive cleaner or a paste made from soda bicarb or stainless steel sink cleaner (remember to wear gloves and goggles). Using a soft cloth, fine nylon scouring pad or soft bristle brush. Rub the surface as softly as possible using long even strokes in the direction of the polished finish. Avoid using a circular motion. Rinse well and wash as per routine cleaning.

Specific Stains and Stainless Steel
The following are specific guides for particular stains. Remember to wear gloves and goggles when using chemicals:

Acids
Try to avoid contact with acids. If contact does occur rinse immediately and soak in ammonia or soda bicarb solution. Follow by routine cleaning.

Bleaches
Try to avoid contact with concentrated or undiluted bleach or nappy wash. If contact does occur rinse immediately and soak in ammonia or soda bicarb solution. Follow by routine cleaning.

Fats, Oils and Grease
Wipe off heavy deposits with a soft cloth or paper towel. Soak in warm detergent or ammonia solution. Follow by routine cleaning.

Finger Prints
Use routine cleaning. If necessary first treat the marks with a soft cloth or paper towel dampened with alcohol (methylated spirits) or an organic solvent (ether, benzine).

Films
A dull, cloudy film is due to detergent residue. A "rainbow" film is due to oil or grease in the washing-up water. Regular routine cleaning, especially with soapy water, should remove these.

Heat Discoloration/Tints
Repeated cleaning as for Heavy Soiling may prove successful. If not, use a 10% solution of Nitric Acid (available from a Chemist) together with a fairly coarse household cleaner with a coarse nylon scouring pad. Acid treatment must be followed by rinsing in ammonia or soda bicarb solution and routine cleaning.
Some alteration to the surface will result. Remember to wear protective equipment and avoid getting the acid on other metals particularly aluminium and copper

Labels
Peel off as much as possible. Soak well in warm water, rubbing periodically with a soft soapy cloth. If adhesive remains, dry and rub gently with alcohol or organic solvent.

Rust Stains
Light superficial brown staining can be removed by routine cleaning repeated regularly for a few days. Similarly for darker stains repeat the cleaning as for Heavy Soiling.

Rust spots with a halo around them indicate a fragment of ordinary steel has become embedded in the surface. Dab the spot, keeping it moist for 30 minutes with a 10% solution of Nitric Acid and repeat until there is no re-occurrence. For severe stains for the procedure as for Heat Discoloration. Remember to rinse with ammonia or soda bicarb solution followed by routine cleaning.

Tannin Stains
As per Acids.

Water Marks/Lime Scale
These are usually kept from developing by routine cleaning. In some localities, because of the quality of the water, regular cleaning as for Heavier Soiling will be required.

If allowed to develop to a marked degree, prolonged soaking in a 25% Vinegar solution or a 5% Nitric Acid solution will loosen the deposit. Rubbing with a bristle brush or a nylon pad will assist in the removal of the scale. Follow by rinsing in ammonia or soda bicarb solution and routine cleaning.

Clark uses 18/10 (Type 304) in all its Stainless Steel products. It is optimised for press working operations where a combination of drawing and stretching takes place. The 18 refers to 18% Chromium in the steel. This is the component that provides the corrosion resistance. the Nickel is mainly incorporated for the ductility it imparts to the steel.

Dorf Clark Industries Limited warrant that in the manufacture of its Stainless Steel products, only high quality workmanship and materials have been employed. If any faulty workmanship or material is proved, Dorf Clark Industries Limited will, at its own cost, repair or (at its option) replace the faulty product.

Clark Stainless Steel products = 25 Years

Clark Permacoat Steel Cabinets = 10 Years

Yes.

Most of our products can have a garbage disposal (90mm) hole added on request. This is also the hole size required for installing a Basket Waste. Our Plug and Waste fits a 50mm (65mm) hole.
Our Advance, Monaco and Epure range of products come standard with 90mm holes and Basket Wastes.

Please note some water authorities do not allow the installation of garbage disposal units in their jurisdiction. Please check before purchasing such an item.

Yes.

Replacement cabinets are available as separate items. Clark changed from painted cabinets to Colorbond Steel in 1988. Since then the incidence of rusted cabinets dropped off markedly. In 1999 a further improvement was made with the introduction of Permacoat Steel virtually eliminating cases of rusted cabinets.

Stainless steel is very recyclable. In fact the steel we use has a high level of recycled steel in it as this tends to be purer and makes better steel.

Our cartons have recycled paper in them and are of course recyclable.

We insist our timber boards come from plantation timber.

Our plastic components are made from Polypropylene and ABS. These products are all recyclable.

Our fixing clips are plated mild steel. These can be recycled with the sink.

Our Plug is made from PVC because this works best in the application. PVC is recyclable but general industry practice is that there are few opportunities for recycling.

There are three main ways of mounting kitchen sinks and laundry tubs.

• In the bench top
• Under the bench top
• Separate to the bench top

With in the bench top products a hole about 12mm undersize is cut in the benchtop and the sink is mounted in this hole. Clips on the underside of the product are used to hold is in place. Clark refers to these as Flushline sinks or tubs which is our proporietry mark for this style. Other suppliers may refer to these products as inset, bench mount or over mount. Any bench top material can be used with such sinks.

 

With under the bench top product a hole is cut in the bench top and the sink is mounted to the under surface of the bench top. In some cases they are welded into a stainless steel bench top. Clips, rubber based silicone glue, timber or other blocks are then used to hold the product in place. Clark refers to these products as Undermount sinks or tubs. A solid surface bench top such as manufactured stone, granite or composite material is required to stop water penetration. The supplier of the bench top should be asked for their recommended method of installation as this can vary depending on the material.

 


With seperate to the bench top products the product is mounted on a suitably constructed cupboard, metal stand, brackets or laundry cabinet. The product generally has a front fascia and tiling lip at the back to keep water off the wall. The product can be mounted in line with an adjoining bench top.


 

According to Standard ASTM A240 (AS1449) 304 Grade Stainless Steel refers to steel with 18% to 20% Chromium and 8% to 10.5% Nickel. In the industry this is often referred to as 18/8. Grade 304DDQ (304L) Stainless Steel refers to steel with 18% to 20% Chromium and 8% to 12% Nickel. In the industry this is often referred to as 18/10.

Both grades of steel have minor traces of other elements such as Carbon, Manganese and Silicon to make up its composition.

The Chromium in the steel is what gives Stainless Steel its corrosion resitant properties. The Nickel is there to help the steel draw and stretch into the finished shape of the sink. It also toughens and strengthens the steel. The DDQ in 304DDQ means deep draw quality. Deep draw is the process the steel goes through to form a bowl.

Clark uses 18/10 (Type 304) in all its Stainless Steel products. It is optimised for press working operations where a combination of drawing and stretching takes place.

The 18 refers to 18% Chromium in the steel. This is the component that provides the corrosion resistance. the Nickel is mainly incorporated for the ductility it imparts to the steel

The supplied bypass fitting from Clark (if applicable) does not allow for dual bypass on a single tub and cabinet. However, installing a dual bypass is possible for our double tub and cabinet, by ordering a double bowl connection and an extra bypass fitting.

Our Stainless Steel products are generally made from 0.8mm or 0.9mm thick steel but a few Signature tubs, some Epure sinks and some commercial products are 1.2 or 1.5mm thick steel. Our double undermount sinks have 1.2mm on the tops.

The Australian standard calls for a minimum, before pressing, of 0.8mm on sinks and tubs and generally 0.9mm or higher for commercial products. During the production process the steel does reduce in thickness in some areas.

History

To almost everybody, the words "stainless steel" bring to mind a smooth, shining metal which is very strong, does not rust, is easy to clean, and lasts a long time.
It was in Sheffield, England in 1913 that Harry Brearley produced the first commercial cast of stainless steel. He was experimenting with steels containing Chromium for the manufacture of rust resisting gun barrels. In 1914 he arranged for some table knives to be made from his "stainless" steel and the resulting strong, hard, rustless knife blades was the start of the public's love affair with the alloy.
In Australia Stainless Steel was first cast and forged in Waratah NSW in 1935, followed by hot rolled bar in 1941 and cold rolled sheet and strip in 1959 at Unanderra NSW. Clark began using Stainless Steel for Sink manufacture in 1946.
Well proven in service for over eighty years, Stainless Steels remains versatile and useful materials for a wide variety of uses. One way or another Stainless Steel touchs daily lives; both directly, through the use of articles made there from; and indirectly, through the role it performs in the manufacturing cycle of numerous commodities. Extensive use is made of its many superior qualities and properties which include functionality, hygiene, beauty, an ability to withstand temperature extremes, and an outstanding resistance to corrosion.

What is Stainless Steel?
 
Stainless Steel is not a single material or alloy, but a group of corrosion and/or heat resistant alloys of Iron (steel) containing chromium and other alloying elements. Technically a Stainless Steel must contain a minimum of 11% Chromium. In practice, most of the commonly used steels contain 17% Chromium for enhanced corrosion resistance.
Chromium is the metal that was plated onto bumper bars and other car parts to protect against rust and provide a bright and shiny surface. In the Stainless Steel manufacturing process the Chromium is melted in the pot with the Iron so it forms a homogeneous mixture. In Chrome Plating the Chrome is deposited upon the surface of the steel. This dispersion of the Chromium all the way through the steel means that Stainless Steel retains its corrosion resistance no matter how much it is scratched because it is the same all the way through.
The corrosion resistance of Stainless Steel is due to formation, on the surface of the steel of an invisible, extremely thin, continuous, uniform and tenacious Chromium rich Oxide film. Should this film be damaged or broken it can spontaneously reform and repair itself simply by contact with the air. (Except under very aggressive, adverse conditions.)

Types of Stainless Steel
 
There are four main types of Stainless Steel:

• Austenitic

The most commonly used grades, austenitic steels are an adaptable family of low Carbon, 17%-20% Chromium & 8%-12% Nickel steels which combine good corrosion resistance with high strength and ease of fabrication when work hardened. They are used extensively for consumer durable, architectural and engineering applications and are, generally, non-magnetic. Common grades are 301, 304 & 310.
Molybdenum bearing austenitic steels have been developed for service in a variety of aggressive and corrosive environments. Common grades are 316 & 321.


• Ferritic

Typically containing 12%-17% Chromium with low Carbon content, these magnetic, "non-hardenable" steels are widely used in the bright annealed form for decorative trim on consumer and household whitegoods. Specially developed ferritic grades also serve as car exhausts and solids handling. Common grades are 409 & 430.


• Martensitic

These steels typically contain 12% Chromium and higher levels of Carbon, these "hardenable" steels are widely used for cutlery and cutting tools. Molybdenum and Vanadium are added for certain aerospace, power generation and engineering applications. Common grades are 410, 420 & 431.


• Duplex

These steels have a mixed ferritic/austenitic structure. Typically containing 18%-26% Chromium & 4%-7% Nickel and offering good resistance to stress corrosion cracking as well as improved strength, they are used extensively in offshore energy and processing industries. Common grades are 2205 & 2304.
 

The Stainless Steel Used in Sink Manufacture

About 50% of all Stainless Steel that is manufactured around the world is Type 304 (austenitic). This used to be called 18/8 as it contains 18-20% Chromium and 8%-10.5% Nickel.
Most sinks are made of a special grade of Type 304 Stainless Steel called 304DDQ (Deep Draw Quality). This steel is sometimes referred to as 18/10 as it tends to have more (10%) Nickel in it and is optimised for press working operations where a combination of stretching and drawing takes place. Nickel is mainly incorporated for the ductility it imparts to the steel. Nickel tends to be the high cost element of Stainless Steel and the price of Stainless Steel will vary with the price of Nickel.
Other grades of steel that may be used in sink manufacture are Type 430 (ferritic). This is used in some low cost sinks with shallow bowls to save money. It is magnetic and tends to form a black oxide layer. Type 301 (austenitic) is used for top (drainer) of some sinks where the bowls are welded to the top. This is used to save cost and where deep drawing is not required (i.e. tops). It is non-magnetic and has good corrosion resistance. Type 316 is used where high corrosion resistant products are required for Laboratories and where salt water is present. We use Type 304DDQ and occasionally Type 316.
There are Standards regarding the quality of the Stainless Steel we buy. All the Stainless Steel used in our products meet the requirements of the ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) standard A240/A480 which is the Standard required by Standards Australia for Australian Sinks. Type 304 is basically equivalent to Type 1.4301 in the European standard EN10088-2.
When a steel thickness is given it is a nominal thickness, as per the standard and the actual steel can be within +/-0.08mm of the nominal. Once the steel is drawn and stretched it can be thicker or thinner than the nominal value.
 
The Supply of Stainless Steel

Up until 1997 99% of the steel used in our sinks was supplied by BHP at Unanderra. With the closure of the mill in May 1997 we were forced to buy our Stainless Steel from overseas. After extensive trialling we have accredited three mills two in Europe and one in Japan and are working with others to develop suitable steel for our processes.
Due to our leading edge technology we purchase only the best steel for our application. We do not spot buy Stainless Steel but have a special formula made for us from the best qualified mills in the world

Further Information

This information was developed from a variety of sources including literature from the different steel mills including BHP. Other sources of information and further reading is available at ASSDA (Australian Stainless Steel Development Association) and at World Steel (International Iron and Steel Institute).

Type 304 (18/8 & 18/10) is not magnetic when we get it but during the production process, as we form and stretch it, it will become magnetic in the areas where the metal is work hardened.

If you hold a magnet to a sink it will fall off on the drainer area but hold on strongest in the corners of the bowl.

Background

Once a sink is pressed and in its final shape it is usually surface finished to achieve the look required by the customer. Some low cost sinks may do away with this step and supply the sink with the steel's original finish, but the production process usually means that a surface finish step is desirable.

The steel finish does not alter the mechanical properties of the steel or the corrosion resistance by any significant amount. It can however have an affect on how noticeable scratches, finger marks are and how easy the product is to clean.
 
Original Finish of the Steel
 
There are five types of original finish that are typically supplied by the steel mill to the sink manufacturer for use in the production of sinks.

2B or 2D
The most commonly used finish for sink steel. This has a silvery grey, mildly reflective finish produced by cold rolling, softening, skin passing and descaling. This finish requires further surface finishing before it is acceptable to the customer.

BA or 2R
This is another widely used finish. Still cold rolled, skin passed and descaled, BA is created by a final annealing in a controlled atmosphere furnace. This creates a mirror like finish that can be left as is for the customer but is often further polished to achieve a better final finish.

No.4
This is a general purpose scratch finish achieved by taking a 2B steel and uniformly polishing one side with a 100-150 mesh abrasive belt. This finish is widely used on commercial product.

Brush
There are various special finishes put on by mills at the request of sink manufacturers. These tend to be ones with very fine scratches applied with very fine abrasive belts (maybe with buffing compunds) or Scotchbrite. Many sinks out of Europe now start with a brush finish which is either left as is or further polished to achieve a better final finish.

Pattern
Some sinks with welded bowls have tops made of steel with a pattern imprinted in it. The most common of these is "Linen" which has a pattern like woven linen.

Final Finish of the Steel
Apart from the original steel finishes there are three typical finishes used on sinks though the quality of the final product varies considerably depending on the manufacturer.

Bright or Mirror
Typically applied to a 2B or BA steel, this finish has a high level of reflectivity (i.e. you can usually see your face in it). This finish, as applied to our Monaco, Advance, Benchmark, Flushline Tub & Laundry Unit Ranges, is achieved using Sisal mops with cutting compound followed by Cotton mops and a buffing compound.
This finish tends to be easy to clean but does show scratches from cutlery etc very easily. This is a function of the finish and is not due to the use of "soft" steel. In fact steel is "harder" today than it ever was and purer too because of modern production techniques at the steel mills. You will find old sinks are covered with fine scratches that tend to be not that noticeable because they blend in over time.

Brush or Satin
Typically applied to a 2B, BA or Brush steel, this finish has fine, uniform scratches with some lustre to it. This finish is achieved either with the Sisal and cotton combination used above or using Tampico mops with a satin compound. Good examples are high end European sinks and those in the Epure range.
This finish tends to OK to clean but can leave visible finger and other marks. The brush finish tends to hide scratches and be similar to the finish on other stainless steel appliances in the kitchen.
 
Scratch
Typically applied to a 2B steel, this finish has a dull finish. This finish is typically achieved using abrasive belts, impregnated nylon mops or scotchbrite pads. Many sinks destined for the American market tend to have this finish.

Most sinks lie somewhere between the Brush and Bright finishes depending upon the manufacturer and the level of effort they have used in polishing.

At Clark we feel that timber or foam backing is unnecessary. It just adds cost for no real benefit.

Some say it reduces noise but have you heard a noisy sink?

Some say it stops condensation but there is plenty of steel around a small patch of foam if condensation was to form.
Stainless Steel is a good insulator against heat and it takes a bit of effort to heat or cool it.

When looking at competitor sinks, especially imports, we find that the timber backing can hide a poor pressing. The inherent stiffness in the drainer that our sinks have is missing from these products and they can be prone to poor drainage.

Through our technological edge we have now been able to remove the need for backing on all our products.

The original paint work on the cabinet is a baked enamel finish and the colours used are PA18059-T for the top coat and PN28009-D for the inside backing coat.
For touching up some of the paint companies sell Appliance White paint. This should match the cabinet colour. You may want to use a metal primer for bare metal areas.

These are industry short-hand for the different bowl configurations available:-

• SB Single Bowl - a bowl by itself without a drainer


• SEB Single End bowl - a bowl with a drainer on one side


• SCB Single Centre bowl - a bowl with a drainer on both sides


• 1.5B 1 1/2 Bowls - a large and small bowl together without a drainer


• 1.5EB 1 1/2 End Bowls - a large and small bowl together with a drainer on one side


• 1.5CB 1 1/2 Centre Bowls - a large and small bowl together with a drainer on both sides


• DB Double Bowls - two full size bowls together without a drainer


• DEB Double End Bowls - two full size bowls together with a drainer on one side


• DCB Double Centre Bowls - two full size bowls together with a drainer on both sides


• 2.5B 2 1/2 Bowls - two full size bowls with a small bowl, usually in the middle without a drainer


• 2.5EB 2 1/2 End Bowls - two full size bowls with a small bowl, usually in the middle with a drainer on one side


• 2.5CB 2 1/2 Centre Bowls - two full size bowls with a small bowl, usually in the middle with a drainer on both sides

These numbers are a way of indicating the relative size of the secondary bowl to the large or main bowl of a sink.

• 1.25 =1 1/4 =small bowl a quarter of the large bowl


• 1.33 =1 1/3 =small bowl a third of the large bowl


• 1.5 =1 1/2 =small bowl one half of the large bowl


• 1.75 = 1/34 = small bowl three quarters of the large bow

Many sinks, without tap holes, can be turned around (reversed) so that the bowls, which originally may have been on the are now on the right. A sink of this nature is deemed to be reversible. Usually once a tap hole is punched in the product it can no longer be reversed.

Sometimes one or more bowls are pushed towards the front of the sink to allow more room for taps or to make the bowls closer to the consumer. Such a sink is said to have forward bowls and is not reversible.